Swimming pools blog

6 responses so far ↓

• 1 janis_40 // Sep 3, 2004 at 6:21 am

  In a message dated 5/31/2003 6:45:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
  MRANDMRSPEPI@… writes:
  Get a whisperflo pump and dump the waterfall.
  Ken (electricjet)

• 2 wyatt_2000 // Sep 3, 2004 at 8:15 pm

  You’ll love the waterfall…is 2hp enough for four fountains?….Is that pump
  being used for filtration and vacuuming also?….I think there’s a fair amount
  of “art” to this vs. “science”…..I WOULD WANT TO TALK TO A POOL OWNER WITH A
  SIMILIAR CONFIGURATION…. I did this when building our pool and found a some
  gaps between theory and reality, especially about “pump power” vs. number of
  jets, fountains etc…..I guess alot of this is also based on how you’re
  piped, your Jandy valve configurations, what your expectations are for running
  things simultaneously.

• 3 janis_40 // Sep 4, 2004 at 9:18 pm

  In a message dated 5/31/2003 8:30:33 PM Central Daylight Time,
  larry@… writes:
  The soothing feeling goes away when the mineral buildup makes it look ugly
  and you spend hours getting it clean. If you get algae on it cleaning that is
  hard as well. Do not want to rain on your picnic but been there already.
  Ken (electricjet)

• 4 janis_40 // Sep 5, 2004 at 4:47 pm

  In a message dated 6/1/2003 10:17:36 AM Central Daylight Time,
  kglosser@… writes:
  If the pool is only using 2 inch piping then 2HP is all you can use. You can
  put a bigger pump on it but the reality is you can only stuff so much water
  through a 2 inch pipe.
  Ken (electricjet)

• 5 janis_40 // Sep 7, 2004 at 7:44 am

  In a message dated 6/1/2003 2:08:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
  larry@… writes:
  Desert southwest region! Calcium build up one hot summer! Natural stone
  waterfall! Got black algae in the rocks even with running the pump 12 hours per
  day and with a DE filter and with perfect pH and TA and with the proper
  chlorine content and with shocking it every week. The rock formation caused so
  much
  evaporation when it was on that the pool lost 5 inches of water a week at
  100+ degrees of outside airtemp. We could not run it with the solar cover on
  either so what good was it.
  We built a water feature on the patio and ran it when we wanted the effect.
  Much better solution in my opinion.
  Sorry just a rant against needless frills on a pool. Pools get to be
  complicated money pits so I have gotten to the point where I use the KISS
  principal
  
  when building one. About the only frill I put on the second pool was a SAM
  light.
  Ken (electricjet)

• 6 janis_40 // Sep 8, 2004 at 10:40 pm

  In a message dated 6/2/2003 7:21:36 AM Central Daylight Time,
  mrniceguynj2002@… writes:
  John and Donnie, most pool lights are of the same configuration and are
  attached in the same manner. Notice I said most! There are two types of lights
  the first and most common being one that is installed in a niche. The niche is
  nothing more than a fiberglass or plastic housing that was installed before
  the gunite was sprayed and provides a means to keep the water in the pool while
  allowing the pool light to be removed. The second type is the nicheless
  light. In this case the light forms the seal against the sidewall of the pool.
  With the nicheless the pool must be drained down below the level of the light
  before the light is removed while the type with a niche need not be drained.
  How do you tell! Most of the time the nicheless has a rubber seal around the
  outside of the housing and these types are generally installed after the pool
  was built. The type with thniche has but one screw on the outermost ring of
  the light and will either be on top or on the bottom.
  
  TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER!
  Remove the screw and the fixture will pivot out away from the wall of the
  pool and can then be removed. You will notice a small bracket on the side
  opposite the screw this hooks on a small flange inside the niche so be sure you
  get
  it hooked on when putting the light back in.
  You will notice that when the light fixture is out of the niche there is a
  bunch of cord behind it. This allows you to take the fixture up onto the deck
  and work on it there. Lay a towel on the deck and lay the light face down.
  You will either see a steel band with four or five brackets and one screw to put
  tension on the asembly or you will see a bunch of little tabs held on with
  screws. If you have the tabs and screws use some liquid wrench on the screws
  and let sit for several days before trying to remove them. Once you have the
  clamping mechanism removed you will have a back housing, a front trim ring and a
  gasket which holds the lens. After you get the assembly apart and you may
  need to do some prying so be carefull and do not break the lens take the gasket
  to the pool store and get a new one. Take a picture of the light with you
  because there are many types so make it easy for everyone and give them some
  visual reference. Get some lube for use in your pool as well this will assist
  you in reassembling the light later.
  There are halogen or incandescent lights so remove the bulb and take it with
  you as well. If you have a 120V incandescent fixture you can screw in a
  standard bulb and test the fixture to be sure it works. With the halogen it may
  be
  low voltage or 120V and unless you are experienced get a new bulb and test it
  that way.
  You may test the fixture witht e new bulb for a few seconds and I stress just
  a few seconds.
  A 500 watt bulb generates a bunch of heat.
  Lube the inside of the gasket lightly and install the lens. Lube the outside
  of the gasket and put the gasket into the faceplate. Set the housing on and
  install the clamps and start tightening it down. As you do so be sure all of
  the parts fit properly without pinched gasket and crooked fitting pieces. If
  you take care now you just might save yourself some grief later. Grief being
  the need to remove the fixture again and dry it out because the gasket leaked.
  Install the fixture back in the niche making sure the cord is behind it.
  Turn on the breaker and test the fixture again. Watch it over the next several
  days for moisture on the inside of the lens. If you get a lot you have a leak.
  Have fun!
  If the new bulb does not fix the problem or the fixture is rusted on the
  inside and needs to be replaced it can be done but it is a giant pain in the
  butt.
  Ken (electricjet)

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